St. Moritz – not only champagne and fur coats

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Hard to believe that 150 years ago some crazy people just crashed down over snowy hills, a kind of staves fixed on their  leather shoes. In the Engadine Valley the english aristocrats discovered the little village St.Moritz as a meeting point to spend the wintertime.  By the time the sporty part of St. Moritz was nearly forgotten,  just the wonderful parties on the frozen lake with champagne and fur coats got into everybody’s mind. But anyway so there is enough space on the slopes in the middle of the amazing mountain scenery.

Traumwelt in weiß , das ist die Bernina - Gruppe mit dem Piz Palm
A dream in white is the wintery  Bernina -chain with the highest summit of the Piz Palü.

To ski in the lonely Ära of the Bernina Mountains you have to put your ski skins and walk for some hours but it will be unforgettable experience. Nothing but silence and an oberwhelming nature. Much easier to reach are the popular and vey well prepared slopes of  the Corviglia and Corvatsch, the freerides of Hahnensee at the Corvatsch,  Morteratsch-Glacier at the Diavolezza und from the Lagalb down to the valley of Valtellina. But by the way: on the slopes at Furtschellas you can be as well very much on your own.

Where to stay ?

die klassisch schöne Fassade des ehemaligen Kurhotels
the beautiful classical facade of the luxury hotel Kempinski Hotel des Bains

Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains  A luxury retreat for sporty guests.  The cross-country ski run goes along behind the hotel building and to reach the gondola up to the Corviglia it is a stone’s throw.  After being in the cold everybody likes to enjoy the stylish wellness area with pools and different saunas. The one who didn’t have enough sport during the day quite a spacious gym is waiting for you. Via Mezdi 27, Tel 081 838 3838.

Die Lobby im Badrutts Palace ist ein Treffpunkt der Gesellschaft
Upper class meeting point is the lobby of the Badrutts Palace Hotel.

Badrutts’s Palace Hotel Palace ist Palace,  the famous luxury hotel of St. Moritz.  From the vey beginning, the opening in 1892 the upper class met here and this never stopped.  The one who can’t afford a room, should at least go there for the afternoon tea, enjoying the atmosphere of the vast lobby. Don’t forget to go to there terrace or have a look through the window, the view on the lake can’t be any better. Via Serlas 27, Tel 081 837 1000.

Einer der chicen Zimmer des Hotels Müller
One of the rooms in contemporary chic of  Hotel Müller

Hotel Müller It is a hotel where most of the people feel comfortable. All the rooms show a contemporary design, very functional and who ever needs more space there are  as well some suites and a loft opposite the main building.  The Hotel doesn’t have any pool or spacious wellness, just a convenient sauna. Perfect! But two very good restaurants, one with italian cuisins and the other one, named Stüva is well known for dishes with fish. Via Maistra 202, Pontresina  Tel. 081 839 3000.

So sehen Winterferien im Engadin aus.
So sehen Winterferien im Engadin aus.

Hotel Waldhaus  You can’t fail. The Hotel is sitting like a medieval castle on top of Lake of Sils. One of the best hotels in den Engadine Valley, a wonderful combination of tradition and hospitality, with a huge potential of regular guests. As in all traditional houses the spacious lobby is where everybody meets, having an afternoon tea or reading the newspaper.  You should not miss the dinner in the wonderful dining hall. A big memory of the old days. Via da Fex 3,  Sils. Tel. 081 838 5100.

Where to eat?  

Die asiatische Speisekarte des Sr Bus rundet das Angebot des Restaurants im Kempinski ab.
I like the asian menu of the Sra Bua, one of four restaurants in the Kempinski Hotel.

Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains – Enoteca  During winter season the Kempinski Hotel opens 4 restaurants  and I prefer the easy going Enoteca.  Relaxed interior design with small tables, the winebar in the center and exciting food create a vey special atmosphere.  On the menu you find the “triologie” three small dishes and the very best the “tasting of the Engadine Valley”. Totally different is the asian Sra Bua with a tasty Sushi menu and an excitingly good  “spicy tuna roll”. Via Mezdi 27, Tel 081 838 3081.

Die Pizza im Chesa Weglief kann man nur empfehlen.
Die Pizza im Chesa Veglia kann man nur empfehlen.

Chesa Veglia  The atmosphere of a medieval farmhouse in combination with traditional cuisine can’t fail. In the Chesa Veglia (means old house) you have three restaurants and two bars: the very popular “Pizzeria Heuboden” and “Patrizier Stuben”  with traditional dishes like breast of duck or sliced veal  but the best is the dessert of Crêpes Suzette, prepared at the table. Via Veglia 2, Tel. 081 837 2800.  Pizzeria, opens at 6.30 pm, Patrizier Stuben at 12 pm.

Hier ist Nobu mit seinem Küchenchef Di Santo im Badrutts Palace
Hier ist Nobu mit seinem Küchenchef Di Santo im Matsuhisa.

Matsuhisa  The japanese Chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa just opened his Premium – Restaurant “Matsuhisa”  in the Badrutt’s Palace. It is one of only six restaurants worldwide und you can eat a mix of a japanese and peruvian cuisine like his famous “black cod” or “yellow tail Jalapeno”.  Open only in winter till March 14. Opens at 7.30 pm. Tel.  081 837 2661.

Banfis Bar It is a perfect place for a convenient, unexpensive lunch. Located in the middle of st. Moritz-Bad you see a lot of locals and so can enjoy the everyday’s atmosphere. The menu has only one main dish which changes daily  but you always can have pasta and salad. Worth a visit! Open for breakfast and lunch. Via del Bagn 5, Tel 081 833 2579.

El Paradiso The Number One Ski Hut in the St.Moritz region, situated on the Corviglia. Easy to get even without skis. Amazing view on the lakes and the opposite mountains of Corvatsch and Bernina. Very good food and famous for cream slices. Via Engiadina, Tel.081 833 4002.


schöner geht es nicht mehr.  Sonne und Pulverschnee
Can it  be any better. Sun , champagne powder and a good pair of skis.

The Engadine is the Nonplusultra for alpine skiing and ambitious cross-country. You see many good skiers and a lot of  cross-country people aiming for the famous Engadine Marathon. But it is as well a catwalk for the actual fashion and you won’t miss the colour of the season.

seit 1976 gibt es den Skiservice Corvatsch, nun ist die 2. Generation mit Karin und Conradin Conrad am Ruder.
That is the second generation of the Skiservice Corvatsch, now Karin and  Conradin Conrad are in charge of the business.

Skiservice Corvatsch The main store is near the Gondola to the Corvatsch in the village of Surlej and you find a wonderful range around alpine skiing. Extremely wellknown for renting all new models of skis and shoes. In the upper floors you find a big choice of fashionable ski suits and a lot of fashion in the snow. Ski Corvatsch has 13 stores, very convenient at the hotels Kempinski, Carlton und Badrutt’s Palace. Via dal Corvatsch 29, Silvaplana-Surlej. Tel. 081 838 7777.  Opens  at 8 am till 7 pm.

Advice: Regarding fashion Christine Conrad recommends the label Frauenschuh from Kitzbühel. Wellknown für the finest Ski fashion, very offen a combination of Loden with modern textiles.

Mehr als 10 000 Läufer zählt der Engadin Skimarathon in jedem Jahr.
Mehr als 10 000 Läufer zählt der Engadin Skimarathon in jedem Jahr.

Dorina Sport Her little store in St. Moritz -Bad is the meeting point for cross-country people in the Engadine Valley.   Besides being in her store Dorina Riedi is an excellent ski instructor and many of them are vey loyal clients today.  Very fashion-minded you find the lastest outfits, so this winter you will see the trendsetter in lemon and black. Via Surpunt 19, St. Moritz. Tel. 081 833 8085. Opens Mo – Sat  9am till 12.30pm, 2pm -7pm.

Langlauf und Ausdauersport sind die Domäne von Dorina Sport.
Langlauf und Ausdauersport sind die Domäne von Dorina Sport.

Advice Dorina Riedi recommends for the experienced cross-country people the ski runs to Palüd lungia or the Statzer Alp and to the Val Roseg.  All three runs are quite steep, uphill and downhill, bit you won’t too many others.  Immer

Where to shop ?

For sure you find all luxury labels in St.Moritz, like everywhere else.

Einen Blick in das Schaufenster von Silvano Vitalini.
a look into the shopwindow of Silvano Vitalini

Silvano Vitalini  It is not easy to find the little boutique of Silvano Vitalini in the center of St.Moritz. He is a local and after some studies he settled down in his hometown.  A lot of made to measure regarding evening wear in collaboration with Dania Good. besides men’s jackets and hand knitted pullovers.Plaza dal Mulin 8, Tel. 081 833 3301. Opens Tue – Fr  2 pm till 6.30 pm, Sat 1pm – 6 pm.

Die Cocktailkleider werden alle von Hand gefertigt.
All the evening dresses are to measure in his atelier behind the store
Edvard Munch
Der Tod ist pechschwarz, aber die Farben sind hell. Als Maler muss man mit Lichtstrahlen arbeiten.
Edvard Munch
Der Tod ist pechschwarz, aber die Farben sind hell. Als Maler muss man mit Lichtstrahlen arbeiten.
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